The Eastern UP

Welcome to the next installment of places to travel in Michigan. This week’s region is the Eastern Upper Peninsula. This area is near and dear to my heart, as I have spent a lot of time here and this area was the focus of my Senior Honor’s Thesis for college. Where do we start.…

History is always a good place. When Michigan was originally explored by the French back in the mid-1600s, the essentially began in the north and went south. In 1668 Father Marquette founded Sault Ste. Marie—making the city the third oldest settlement east of the Appalachian Mountains. Fur trading back to Europe helped bring this area to life during the 1700s and into the late 1800s. During the end of fur trading, lumbering began to take over. While a profitable industry, the lumber barons destroyed thousands of acres of forest. By the early 1910s and 1920s the Eastern UP was suffering because of the decline in lumber profitability. Long before the Great Depression swept the nation, businessmen and citizens of the Eastern UP began to suffer. A little known fact is that President Hoover began a Civilian conservation Corps type program years before Roosevelt. However, President Roosevelt took Hoover’s small relief programs and expanded them to a level unseen in history. Enter President Roosevelt in 1932. A few months after his election, he began the Civilian Conservation Corps. The workers of the CCC restored THOUSANDS of acres of land, created hundreds of miles of roads and paths, and created the camping areas in many of the national and state forests. Thanks to the CCC replenishing the forests in the 1930s, we can enjoy them now. Hiawatha National Forest is the largest forest area in the Eastern UP and offers several places to camp (which are usually cheaper than the state camp grounds and you don’t need a park pass to enter, just a little FYI).

Also the northern end of the Mackinac Bridge ends in St. Ignace, but I will save an entire entry for the bridge later…

Munising is a great spot to visit if you love maritime history, like myself. You can take kayaking tours of the river and bay area and see wonderful wildlife and shipwrecks. Most of the schooners are shallow wrecks that you can basically see from the surface of the water. That being said, this is also a prime area for scuba diving.

My favorite place in the entire state is Whitefish Point. It is my home. There is nothing like sitting on the shore of Lake Superior and wondering what it must have looked like when Douglass Houghton walked those very shores. Whitefish Point is an active lighthouse and Coast Guard Station as well. The most notable artifact in the museum is the bell taken from the wreck site of the Edmund Fitzgerald (again, another entry for that will come later.) One thing I have always wanted to do is rent one of the guest quarters at Whitefish Point. It’s rather expensive but seems like a great experience.

From Whitefish Point you can head south and hit Tahquamenon Falls. There are the Upper and Lower falls, and both are amazing. Also, the park offers modern camping AND a brewery! That’s right a brewery! I recommend the Blueberry Ale. Delicious!

Sault Ste. Marie is also a nice little town. Over on Water Street there is a row of historic houses being restored. One house was lived in by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who did early surveying of Michigan, and John Johnston. My favorite museum though is the Valley Camp, which is a retired Great Lakes Freighter that you walk through. They have wonderful exhibits and some great Fitzgerald artifacts. The Soo Locks are an interesting visit as well; there is a wonderful park, visitor center, and viewing areas to check out the freighters that pass through. Also West Pier and Clyde’s have GREAT burgers...just a little tip from the locals.

St. Ignace is the first city you go through in the Eastern UP, and has a couple of cool spots. Firstly, there is the Father Marquette Memorial and the Straights Park, both of which offer wonderful views of the Mackinac Bridge. But you NEED to go to Lehto’s Pasty Shop, which serve some of the best pasties in St. Ignace. If you want some great whitefish, you must go to the Driftwood on State Street. It’s the some of the best whitefish I’ve ever ate.

As a side note for future Bridge Walkers, I recommend staying in St. Ignace. It seemed much easier to start in St. Ignace than Mackinac City. Plus there are plenty of places to stay. In fact, I booked a camp site at Carp River like a month before the walk, and even when we got there spots were still available.

There’s just a few places I like to go to in the Eastern UP. I’m sure I can mention many more, but I hope this encourages you to do a little exploring yourself if you make it up there.

Sustaining Our History and Environment

When most people think of going green or living sustainably, they think the solution is to build new buildings with eco-friendly materials. A brand new modern building not only looks aesthetically pleasing to some people, but the structure conveys the idea of sustainability through its new windows and building materials. However, is building a new building the sustainable way to go, especially when there are historical and old non-historical buildings that could serve the same purpose? While newer buildings may seem like the sustainable solution, revitalizing older buildings actually offer more benefits than building a completely new structure.

In order to build a new structure, huge amounts of energy go into the actual construction of the building. The most obvious example is the machines that are needed to construct the actual structure, thus adding pollution to the environment. Additionally, new materials need to be made and transported to the site, which adds to the energy it takes to build the new structure. Furthermore, if an older building stands on the ground where the new structure is to be placed, more energy is needed to demolish the existing building. Governing Magazine’s article, “Greening of Historic Buildings”, describes buildings as having “embodied energy”: “When a building is torn down, its ‘embodied energy’--the energy already exerted to create and gather the materials, and then construct the structure--is wasted.” After the older building is torn down, most of those materials may end up in a land fill. Finally, the construction of a new building begins. Pouring foundations and other structural supports create a disastrous foot print that takes hundreds of years to be renewed by nature. By using a building that already exists much of this process is eliminated and energy can be focused to fix smaller structural elements.

Many professionals in the field of historic preservation also note that older buildings were often built to last much longer than buildings built in the last 50 years. The quality of materials used in older builds is much better than the materials used today. Patrice Frey, director of sustainability research at the National Trust for Historic Preservation, explains that the wood used to make windows and supports for older building is of a higher quality than materials used today. Frey notes that vinyl windows are constructed to last about 20 years and do not hold heat as well as wood frame windows. As a result, when people replace these windows they generally end up in the local dump. He adds that wood windows can last up to 100 years, hold heat better than vinyl windows, and are relatively easy to fix.

Additionally, older buildings were constructed in ways to take advantage of natural light and environmental resources. For example, most early mills were built next to rivers to harness the energy of the moving water to power machinery. The mill may also have had windows placed in certain spots to take advantage of the natural sunlight, which allows for maximum lighting in the summer and heating in the winter. Additionally, the floor plan of the mill may be designed in such a way to allow for ventilation and air flow throughout the building. All of these qualities can help to reduce energy use today with minimum impact to the environment.

Another reason to use older historic or non-historic buildings is that there are numerous local and federal tax credits available to refurbish or preserve buildings. According to the National Park Service, which works with the Internal Revenue Service to distribute these credits, the credits are “one of the Federal government’s most successful and cost-effective community revitalization programs.” The government offers two levels of tax credits available to structures that qualify. The first is the 10% credit and the second is the 20% credit.

The 10% credit helps people who may own non-historic buildings built before 1936. For example, if the owner of a building spends $1.1 million to buy a structure and then puts $1 million dollars of work into the building, the total tax refund would be $210,000. The 20% tax credit is offered to those people who have purchased a historic structure and agree to make rehabilitation changes in accordance with the Secretary of the Interior standards of restoration. If the owner of the historic structure spends $2 million to purchase a building and spends $1 million in restoration, the total tax credit received in this scenario would total credit they will receive $300,000. Along with other federal tax credits, many local and state governments offer tax credits for people who purchase older buildings and plan to restore or conserve the buildings. By using the tax credits available to restore older buildings, the impact of investing in non-historic and historic buildings drastically improves the direct area and surrounding communities in the future.

Utilizing historic buildings brings much needed income and jobs to once desolated areas of many cities and communities. A study conducted by the Michigan Historic Preservation Network (MHPN) in 2006 notes that since 2001, preservation work has grown rapidly and returned millions of dollars back into Michigan’s economy: “Since MHPN issued its 2001 report, private investment spurred over $902 million to Michigan’s economy, for a total economic impact of more than $1.93 BILLION and the creation of more than 22,000 jobs.” One city trying to change its image through revitalizing older buildings is Detroit, Michigan. The Merchants Row area located on Woodward Avenue is one example of the beneficial impact of using buildings already available rather than constructing new buildings. The MHPN Report from 2006 notes the total investment to rehabilitate the five buildings for this project was just over $28 million dollars in early 2000. Since their competition, they have brought nearly $60 million dollars in total economic income for the area and created over 700 jobs.

Even small cities like Ypsilanti, Michigan, have reaped benefits from offering incentives to restore old buildings. About 25 years ago, the area known as Depot Town in Ypsilanti was known as a rough part of town. However, with investments from local business owners, businesses have helped turn this area of town around. Depot Town draws many people from all over the area to their businesses, restaurants, and community activities.

Restoration of existing buildings benefits the communities in the same way that new buildings do. Just as new buildings increase surrounding property values, historic and non-historic buildings that are restored do the same thing. However, the increase of property value is far greater in area close to a revitalized historic district or historic structure than areas that are not close to a historic district or historic structure. The MHPN report notes that in Kalamazoo, Michigan, the property value in areas surrounding the revitalized historic district increased nearly 400% while areas not surrounding the historic district only increased about 70%. Furthermore, local and state governments benefit from increased revenue from these areas. However, the most important aspect of revitalizing older structures is that restoring them brings life to an area of a community that has deteriorated as a result of years of neglect.

Choosing to restore a historic or non-historic structure offers several important benefits that impact the community at a greater level than building a completely new structure and is the more sustainable choice when purchasing a building. By using a building that is already constructed we save a huge amount energy that would be used to construct a completely new building. Furthermore, federal and state governments support revitalization programs by offering investors huge tax credits. While saving energy and money are important, the ripple effect that revitalizing an older building in a town or city brings additional revenue and draws other businesses to the area. More importantly, using historic and non-historic buildings saves deteriorating areas and saves the historical heritage of our communities.

My Michigan

For my Michigan History class, we were asked to write about "My Michigan" and what this state means to us. As a result, I produced this cheesy poem:

My Michigan mixes the modern with the past
The memories that I have here will always last
Late night drives on Highway Two
Heading to the Keweenaw just for a brew
Back to Mackinaw for Darrow's pie
The ultimate hangover cure we all concur
Back to the north, Hiawatha awaits
And another one of my mountain bikes it will soon take
In the distance a freighter fights gale force winds at Whitefish Point
A ghostly shadow in dusks last light
Down in the south First street comes alive
The Monger brothers dawn the stage
Singing fables of their beloved state
And no matter where I go
To the north and to the south are my colleagues
This is my home

The Best Band Ever.... Peroid.

This is an article I wrote a year ago about my favorite band. Their music speaks to me like no other, and I really think it's their anthems of the Great Lakes State that solidified my love and admiration for this land.


"Their Gifts Are The Fables of The Lakes"

Recently voted the Best Folk Band in 2006 by Current Magazine, Great Lakes Myth Society creates anthems for our area comprised of dark tales and romantic images of our state.

Creating a new genre dubbed "northern rock," their music incorporates elements of folk, rock, and alternative with a banjo and accordion thrown in the mix. Finally, someone gives us a reason to be proud of our state (if one wasn't much of a fan in the first place).

The longtime friends and former members of The Original Brothers and Sisters of Love (The Legend of Jeb Minor and H.O.M.E.S.) formed Great Lakes Myth Society in January 2004: Jamie Monger (vocals and guitar), Tim Monger (vocals, guitar, and accordion), Greg McIntosh (guitar and vocals), Scott McClintock (bass), and Fido Kennington (drums).

A year later, they released a self-titled album. To get a feel for the heart of their music, listen to "Big Jim Hawkins," "Heydays," "Queen of the Barley Fool" and "Summer Bonfire."

Tim Monger adds, "These romanticized drinking anthems are a tonic for a person's daily drudgery." Their most popular song, "Across the Bridge," celebrates Michigan's most recognizable landmark — the Mackinac Bridge.

Written shortly after 9/11, Tim Monger says he wrote the song because the Upper Peninsula of Michigan feels like a safe place: "I'd like to get a cabin with everyone up there. To me, it's the safest place there is."

With Compass Rose Bouquet generating buzz over the Internet and with audiences at shows, the band's long awaited sophomore album will surely appease listeners as much as the first.

While the first album provoked darker connotations with its black cover art and dark lyrics, this album sheds a new light on the band and marks a new chapter in their development. Its bright green cover art, done by Rachel Salomon, evokes the feeling of summer along with a majority of songs.

"Bouquet" kicks off with "Heydays," a retrospective look at the lives they once had and what the places they remember have now become. Then it delves right into the delightfully addictive bass-driven "Summer Bonfire."

Keeping true to the motif of drinking songs, "The Gales of 1838" feels like a last call at the bar and only fits to close out the CD. Each song flows into the next, leaving listeners wanting more when they quickly reach the end of the CD. Jamie Monger, Tim Monger and McIntosh primarily write the songs. Telling and creating the stories surrounding the Great Lakes was an instinctive reaction for the band.

For Jamie Monger, usually the music comes first and the words follow and each song comes together in bits and pieces: "If you gathered all of the pieces of notebook paper, bar napkin, and bits of flesh that I've scribbled on... and tossed them into Lake Superior, you'd have a completely recycled (and kind of gross-looking) freighter."

Putting those pieces together can take weeks, month, and even years.

Where does drummer Fido Kennington see the band in five years? He doesn't really try to focus on the future; he lives in the here and now. He does say, however, "Let's hope that by then Great Lakes Myth Society is booking 200 plus international dates a year and moving 5,000 units a week."

With any luck, this could come faster than they think. The band took their "fables of the lakes" to the South by Southwest Festival in Texas, Kentucky, and Tennessee. This past September marks their first television appearance on Fearless TV in New York City.

Fans can look forward to an appearance in January at the Blind Pig and the release of new music in the spring, including new renditions of old Original Brothers and Sisters of Love songs.

As with every career, there is the good and bad. The sound check, the waiting to get on stage and all the other preparations are the hardest parts. Scott says, "Is it worth it to have one hour of fun for every eight hours of... work? In our case, the answer is 'yes.'"

On top of that, each member also works full-time jobs to make ends meet on a daily basis. It drains them emotionally and physically—making relationships and life, in general, difficult. He adds, "You are either prepared for a little pain, or you just don't do this kind of thing. You have to kind of enjoy the pain."

The strong friendship between each band member keeps them going and pulls them through the tough times. Scott says, "I, for one, love this band...I love and respect my band mates (as friends and musicians) and I love and respect the music we make."

Their unique chemistry makes the Great Lakes Myth Society what it is. Even without fame or money, their belief in music matters the most to them.

It Feels Like Home

Deep in the conscience of my mind
I wonder aimlessly
Around this cemetery of dead oaks
While the cold wind blows
Creating mountains of snow

But the bar light is welcoming
And my amber glass glows
To my left and my right are the locals
And it feels like home

The jukebox plays softly
The tales of Lake Superior
A lake that can take
Even the mighty Fitzgerld
To an early grave

The bar light is welcoming
And my abmer glass glows
To my left and my right are the locals
And it feels like home

I've been to this place so many times before
This time I rediscovered what I love
The rolling hills of trees, shores that go on for miles
Empty roads, and untouched geography

The bar light is welcoming
And my amber glass glows
To my left and my right are locals
And it feels like home

The beer tips my last glass
And the night wanes on
The moon climbs high in a star lit sky
And the drunks embrace their only light

The bar light is welcoming
And my amber glass glows
To my left and my right are the locals
And it still feels like home....



Dedicated to Michigan... the greatest state in the Union.....